Lovina

Lovina is a long, relaxed stretch of north-coast villages known for its grey-black volcanic sand and calm sea. Most visitors come for a sunrise boat trip to watch the dolphins, then stay for a slow breakfast and a swim.

History

Lovina lies in Buleleng Regency on Bali’s north coast, roughly 5 to 9 kilometres west of Singaraja depending on the source. It is made up of several villages, with Kalibukbuk at the centre alongside Kaliasem, Anturan and Tukad Mungga, spread along about 8 kilometres of shoreline that has stayed far quieter than the south. The area is also a convenient base for visiting the wider north coast.

The origin of the name is uncertain. The regency’s tourism office records several competing accounts, one crediting the children of Anak Agung Panji Tisna, another reading it as a blend of love and Indonesia, another as a Latin phrase meaning loving each other. The office says there is no clear evidence for any of them.

Meaning and culture

Unlike the white sand of the south, the beach here is dark volcanic grey, and the water is calm and gentle. The pace is slower, which suits visitors who want sea air, a quiet swim and an unhurried breakfast rather than a busy beach club scene. It is a relaxed place that rewards getting up early and then taking the rest of the day slowly.

Dolphin watching is the heart of a visit. Bottlenose dolphins usually appear around sunrise, and local operators take guests out in traditional jukung boats. The dolphins are wild and sightings are never guaranteed, so choose a boat that keeps a respectful distance, and keep the sea clean by taking all litter back to shore.

What to see

• Bottlenose dolphins offshore at sunrise
• Dark volcanic sand at Kalibukbuk beach
• Fishermen’s jukung boats on the shoreline
• Snorkelling and nearby north-coast dive sites

Good to know

• Leave very early; boats set off around sunrise and the dolphins are best seen first thing
• Agree the price and the time before boarding
• Bring a light layer and sun protection for the open boat
• Combine with Banjar hot springs or the north Bali waterfalls on the same trip