Besakih Temple

Besakih is known as the Mother Temple of Bali, a sprawling hillside complex on the southern slope of Mount Agung. It is the island’s largest and most important place of Hindu worship, and a quiet, absorbing stop for anyone curious about Balinese faith.

History

Besakih is not one building but a collection of many temples spread across several terraces of the mountainside. Accounts describe around eighteen temples open to the public and at least eighty more that belong to particular clans and communities, all grouped around the central sanctuary.

The complex has been the religious heart of the island for centuries and sits within the old kingdom of Karangasem, whose rulers supported it. Its position on Mount Agung is deliberate: the Balinese regard the volcano as the home of the gods, so the temple was placed as close to it as people could reasonably build.

Meaning and culture

The principal sanctuary, Pura Penataran Agung, is reached by a long stairway and a series of gates. Inside, rows of shrines rise on separate levels, with the tallest tower, eleven tiered, dedicated to the supreme god. Only Balinese Hindus may enter the inner courtyards, so visitors look in through the gates and walk the outer paths.

Besakih belongs to everyone on the island rather than to a single village. Families from every regency send offerings here, and the temple is busiest during its great ceremonies, which draw processions, gamelan and thousands of worshippers. If you arrive during one, your guide can explain what is happening and where to stand.

What to see

• The stairway and split gates leading to Pura Penataran Agung
• Views of Mount Agung from the upper terraces
• Temples dedicated to Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu
• Offerings and daily prayers, observed respectfully

Good to know

• Wear a sarong and sash, and cover your shoulders
• Agree on your route with your driver or guide before entering, so you are not approached by unofficial helpers
• Bring a light layer, as the slopes can be cool and misty
• Check ceremony dates in advance; the temple is quieter outside the major festival period